Uruguay presents a great tourist destination surprise in South America

by Dan Moore

	Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.

Most people are a little unsure about Uruguay, dismissive almost. This is strange as unlike some other countries in South America Uruguay’s reputation has not been tainted by a history of kidnaps or revolutions. The big issue for many visitors to this corner of South America is one of what to do in Uruguay, especially when Argentina, with big, glitzy old Buenos Aires, is just over the river.

I decided that despite all the fun to be had in Buenos Aires, I was hankering to do something more than visit old haunts in that great vibrant city. As such, the solution was a few days in Uruguay, and the discovery of an unexpected gem in Colonia del Sacramento. This small town was about as far from the hectic verve of Buenos Aires as you can travel by ferry in under two hours.

To visit Colonia del Sacramento is to take a step back in time. Once out of the ferry terminal the town centre is a five-minute taxi ride away. As I did not have any accommodation booked, I just asked to be dropped off at the town square.

Colonia del Sacramento oozed old world charm, and even though I’d been in the country for less than half an hour I was already congratulating myself on opting to cross Río de la Plato. The most outstanding aspect of the town was it colonial architecture, with white washed walls and leaded windows. It reminded me of Lisbon, which was hardly surprising considering the fact that the Portuguese founded the place in 1680. From its low-rise buildings with the wrought iron balconies to the lazy Sunday attitude that was several beats behind the jaunty tango of Buenos Aires, this felt like the ideal place to relax in before heading back to Argentina, and the plane home.

Finding somewhere to stay proved easy, I just headed east for the first hostel I could find, which was just off the main road. I had a sniff around, and was impressed by the low prices and the general ambience of the place. The rooms, which were found on the far side of a rose-lined stone courtyard, were airy, light and smart.

Colonia del Sacramento is built on a peninsular, and its main street is just one block away from the bay at its tail end. As I was staying within striking distance of the sharp end of town I headed off to explore the point where Colonia meets the waters. I passed a couple of interesting looking restaurants on the way, and found a rather eccentric eatery right on the edge of town opposite a pontoon where a few people sat drink yerba mate and watching kids kick a football on a cosy little beach to the left.

The sun was pretty high so I opted for a stroll along the tree-lined streets of the Barrio Histórico. Considering that the peninsular limited the size of this district of the town, there were plenty of things to see. I passed numerous quaint local artisan shops, not to mention the numerous ancient, pre-war Fords, some of which seemed to have long passed their best.

As I made my way through a maze of small cobbled streets unexpected pleasures appeared, including the Puerta del Campo, a restored fortress and the impressive lighthouse, which I climbed in return of a small donation.

From the top I could see across the town, and further, almost as far as Plaza de Toros. There is a poignant tale about this attraction, which comprises more than just a bullring, as it also features a hotel and racetrack. A wealthy businessman, who was keen to invigorate Uruguay’s tourist industry, built Plaza De Toros early on in the last century. As it was, wider political issues intervened and the banning of bull fights soon after its completion meant that for the dream of many would-be matadors were never realised. Ultimately, the only action most Uruguayan bulls saw happened in the nearby fields.

I headed back down the spiral stairs to the foot of the lighthouse and marvelled at the ruins of the Convento de San Francisco. It was now way past noon and so I headed for a local restaurant, where I was planning to write to some friends and reserve some energy for the afternoon. What with the oldest church in Uruguay numerous museums, the bullring, and a plethora of attractive little bars to enjoy I found myself wondering whether a day and a bit was enough time to spend in sleepy old Colonia del Sacramento.

Further information

All prices are in CAN$. The best months to visit are between January and April. No visa is required for visits to Uruguay.

Getting there: Ferries from Buenos Aires, buses from Montevideo, and flights from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento (airport 17 kilometres from town centre; transfer via taxi).

Getting around: On foot. Regular local buses can reach Plaza De Toros, which is three kilometres from the town centre.

Where to stay: Posada Casa Los Pinos, 191 Washington Barbot, double rooms from $19, Tel: 00598 52 31470; 571 Colonia Baque, double rooms from $10, Tel: 00598 52 12856.

Where to eat: El Asador, 168 Ituzaingó, tasty local foods, atmospheric; La Torre, Av Gral Flores and Santa Rita, lively and loud with great views.

What to do: Visit such highlights of the Barrio Histórico as the lighthouse (donation appreciated), Iglesia Matriz (Uruguay’s oldest church), the fortress of Puerta del Campo and Museo Municipal (entry $1). Plaza De Toros.

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