The Canadian National Newspaper: Featured Travel Destination: Copacabana in Bolivia

There are several mysteries associated with Lake Titicaca, once the haunt of the same Incas who build the fabled mountain-top city of Machu Picchu in nearby Peru. Take the following as typical of the kind of things you hear in these parts.

Within an hour of our arriving in Copacabana, the delectable lake side Bolivian fishing village, we were accosted by a grizzled old fisherman called Ramon who told us of the giant lake lizard that powers away just below the serene surface, gobbling up fish, reed boats, paddle and rowing boats too, for all I know. And then, he went on, there are the spirits of the Inca Indians who move stealthily through the deserted midnight streets and the misty hills.

In some respects these myths crystallise life on the shores of the highest natural fresh water lake in the world. It is a strange place; with ice cool nights and red hot days, eerie gossamer mists and spectacular bloodshot sunsets. Yet for all this, the majority of travellers we met were bleary-eyed and busy, using the town as a convenient stop off point between Lima and Buenos Aires. Most intending to sleep until their bus arrived to take them on to La Paz and their next flight.

Given that there is more than enough about Copacabana to keep even the most travel hardy visitor wide-eyed I found this kind of sad. Sure, it may lack the pizzazz of Brazil’s Copacabana -- note the different spelling -- but I reckon that what it lacks in disco fever it makes up for in old world charm.

We only had a few days up here, and when I say up here I mean it, as Lake Titicaca ripples at over 3,700 metres above sea level. Within an hour of arriving we had completely unwound, the bumps and bruises incurred on the ride over fast disappearing. One of the reasons we had stopped off here was to explore the Lake. We first opted for a pedalo, but were clearly not going to get far on one of these.

Returning to the shore we were approached by a local who was dressed in traditional bright, heavy woollen clothing and felt hat, a nod to the cool evenings at this altitude, yet something of a trial on hot days such as this one. He asked whether we’d be interested in taking tomorrow morning’s boat to Isla del Sol, a former Inca outpost, for a little more than $3.

By noon the next day we had been carried over the vast waters to this islet some two miles out on the lake and had just climbed to the island’s summit. This was where the ancients worshipped the rising and setting sun and you could see why they chose the place. The views were incredible, from the cactus groves through to the distant snow-capped mountains.

On the way back to Copacabana we stopped off at a crumbling, yet still impressive Inca fortress for a quick look around. This small reminder of life before the Spanish Conquistadors was a little poignant, given the turbulent history of modern Bolivia.

Back in town we hunted down a restaurant, or rather a stall which may or may not have been linked to the bar in the center of town and polished off a llama steak and fries, washed down with a bottle of beer. From our table we watched as a convoy of trucks screeched to a halt in front of the huge whitewashed 17th century cathedral that dominates Copacabana. Within minutes hoards of indigenous people had appeared, and set off fire crackers. As a crowd developed a priest appeared and proceeded to shower their vehicles with bottles of beer and rice.

Apparently the purpose of this ceremony was to bless the trucks, which would carry fish, fruits and other saleable goods to La Paz. The mix of Indian religion before a catholic cathedral epitomized the strange, yet seemingly healthy blend of Christianity and pagan beliefs that so many Bolivians cling to.

Night life in Copacabana might not match up to Barry Manilow’s vision, but the locals’ natural ebullience and the willingness of fellow Americans, Europeans and Antipodeans to ‘get stuck in’ as one sun-burned lad put it, meant time just flew by. Perhaps one of the best aspects of an evening on the town is that Bolivia is a ridiculously cheap place to have fun in.

The country may be landlocked, something of a sore point and one that hampers relations with neighbouring Chile and Peru, but is has natural resources in abundance. Bolivia produces several decent beers, with the La Paz brewed Pilsner most prominent in these parts, and is blessed with a variety of good sources of food. Sure, like everywhere else in South America vegetarians are likely to receive odd looks, but unlike Chile, Argentina or Paraguay, vegetables are definitely on the menu.

For those of us who enjoy some meat with their meal, the fact that llamas thrive and their steaks are lean and tasty is good news. All in all the food will set you up for a decent night out.

One of the challenges facing any visitor to Copacabana is to climb Cerro Calvario, Cavalry Hill. Every Sunday local families clamber up the steep rugged hill and place stones they collect on the way around the base of various statues and the fourteen stations of the cross. The short stocky Bolivians traversed the hill with ease, while us gringos panted our way up to the zenith.

If the atmosphere was increasingly thin, the view from the summit was truly breathtaking. It was possible to see the whole town laid out as if a tabletop plan, and farther a field, Isla del Sol and Isla del Luna.

From the peak of Cerro Calvario the sheer scale of Lake Titicaca becomes apparent. Bolivia may be landlocked, but this body of water must constitute the closest thing to a sea. Looking northwest, past specks of islands, the lake disappears over the horizon while around the peninsular on which this hill rests the turquoise waters stretch away for miles before joining with imperious mountains.

By the time we returned to the town the sun was starting to set and we leapt at the opportunity to see it dissolve into the horizon from one of the numerous lakeside bars. As we whiled away an hour or so the dark descended and dots of light appeared over to our left, in Peru. The waters lapped against the beach and we were left pondering the biggest mystery of them all, namely why more visitors to this corner of South America didn’t opt to stop at Copacabana.

About the writer:

Dan Moore is a Travel Writer. Contact him, LINK

Further information:

All prices are in $CDN. No visa is required to visit Bolivia for tourist purposes. The best time to travel is between November and May.

Getting there: You can fly direct to Bolivia from many Canadian airports, but it is usually cheaper to transfer at some other destinations, such as Rio de Janeiro, Santiago or Buenos Aires. Alternatively, catch a coach from Peru, Chile, Brazil or Argentina.

Getting around: Buses can be caught from La Paz to Copacabana. Given its compact size, it is best to travel on foot in Copacabana.

Where to stay: Rosario del Lago, Avenida Costanera, double rooms from $48, Hotel La Cupula, 1-3 Calle Michel Perez, doubles from $22.

What to do: Visit Isla del Sol, various boats leave the jetty twice a day, prices range from $3 per trip; Cathedral Copacabana, free entry; climb Cerro Calvario; rowing boats/pedalos on Lake Titicaca, from $2 per hour.

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